Entee Bui- Your mortgage point guard, 1619 E Monte Vista Road, Unit 5, Phoenix, AZ (2026)

09/25/2026

Getting pre-approved is a big step, but your mortgage is not fully done until you have the keys. That means this may not be the best time to finance a new car, open a new credit card, or put a big purchase on credit.

One new monthly payment can lower how much home you qualify for. Here's why…
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📊 How lenders look at your debt
Lenders use your debt-to-income ratio (DTI): DTI = Monthly debt payments ÷ Gross monthly income (before taxes)

For many conventional loans, the limit is about 50%. Depending on your credit, savings, and loan type, it can be lower. So when you add a new monthly payment, your DTI can go up - and that can reduce how much you qualify for.

What counts as debt:
✅ Car loans
✅ Student loans (even if they're deferred)
✅ Minimum credit card payments
✅ Personal loans, including "0% interest" store financing
✅ Child support or alimony

What does NOT count:
❌ Groceries, gas, phone, utilities
❌ Car insurance, subscriptions
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🚨 "But I'm already approved."
Your approval is still subject to final underwriting. Lenders may check your credit again right before closing. A new account can also lower your credit score. If your numbers change, the loan may need to be reviewed again, and closing can be delayed or even fall apart.

💡 The simple rule: No new loans, no new credit cards, and no big purchases on credit until you get the keys. If something urgent comes up, ask me first so we can check the numbers before you sign.
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Planning a big purchase and a home at the same time?
Send me a message and I'll show you how it changes your numbers.
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS #2355707
📱 716 275-8333
📧 [email protected]

09/23/2026

😰 Is homeownership still possible after bankruptcy?
→ Yes, bankruptcy is not the end of your homeownership dream! You just need time and a plan…

⏳ The break before your comeback depends on the type of bankruptcy and the loan program you choose:

𝗖𝗵𝗮𝗽𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝟳 𝗕𝗮𝗻𝗸𝗿𝘂𝗽𝘁𝗰𝘆:
- FHA loan: Wait 2 years from discharge
- VA loan: Wait 2 years from discharge
- USDA loan: Wait 3 years from discharge
- Conventional loan: Wait 4 years from discharge or dismissal
- - - - -
𝗖𝗵𝗮𝗽𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝟭𝟯 𝗕𝗮𝗻𝗸𝗿𝘂𝗽𝘁𝗰𝘆:
- FHA/USDA/VA loan: You may be able to apply while still in your repayment plan, after 12 months of on-time plan payments and with approval from your bankruptcy trustee or court
- Conventional loan: Wait 2 years from discharge, or 4 years from dismissal

💡 Had a hardship outside your control, like a job loss, medical emergency, or death of a spouse?
→ Some programs may shorten these waits if you can document it. Some lenders also offer Non-QM loans with shorter waiting periods, usually with higher rates and larger down payments.

🔹 Once your waiting period is over, you have great choices:
- FHA loans: Easier credit requirements.
- VA loans: For eligible veterans, service members & surviving spouses, often with no down payment.
- USDA loans: For eligible rural and some suburban areas, with income limits, often with no down payment.
- Conventional loans: Need higher credit but more flexibility.

✅ And while waiting, boost your chances with these steps:
- Rebuild credit: Pay bills on time, use a secured credit card, keep balances low.
- Save for down payment: Even 3.5% (FHA) helps! More savings = better terms.
- Lower debt: Keep credit card balances low, avoid new loans.
- Stable job: Lenders love 2+ years in the same field.
- Keep your papers ready: Tax returns, pay stubs, bankruptcy filing and discharge docs.
- Talk to a mortgage loan officer (me!): I’ll help navigate the process smoothly!

🏠 Just because your past had a “bankruptcy” chapter… doesn’t mean your future can’t say “homeowner.”
📞 Let’s chat - let me help you plan for it!
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS # 2355707

*Waiting periods are general program guidelines. Individual lenders may have stricter requirements. All loans are subject to credit approval and full underwriting.

09/20/2026

If you inherited a house that still has a mortgage, you might be asking, “Do I have to pay off the whole loan now?”
→ Usually, no. You don’t have to pay it all off right away. But you can’t ignore it either.

Here is how it actually works and what your next steps should be:

✅ The Good News First
If a relative inherits the home, federal law (the Garn-St Germain Act) generally stops the lender from demanding a full payoff just because the owner passed away.
→ The loan won't hit your credit unless you take it over, or you were already on the loan.
→ Monthly payments are still due. If payments stop, the home could go into foreclosure. Keep them up to date while you decide what to do.

📌 Your 4 Main Options
→ Keep paying and live there: If the original loan has a low interest rate from years ago, keeping it as-is may cost less than a new loan today.
→ Turn it into a rental: Rent the house out and use that income to cover the mortgage. Check with the servicer before you rent it out.
→ Sell the house: Pay off the loan with the sale money, then split what's left with any other heirs.
→ Refinance: Take out a new loan in your name to pay off the old one. This can help you pull out cash or buy out a sibling, but you give up the old loan's rate.

*To sell or refinance, the home usually needs to be in your name first, through a trust or probate. An estate attorney can help with that part.

⚠️ Things to Keep an Eye On
→ Reverse Mortgages: These do become due when the owner passes away. You usually get a few months to sell or refinance. (If it's an FHA reverse mortgage, you can keep the home by paying either the loan balance or 95% of the home's value - whichever is lower).
→ California Property Taxes (Prop 19): If you inherit a parent's home, its taxable value can reset to today's market value unless a child moves in as a primary home within one year. Limits apply for higher-value homes.
→ Talk to the servicer early: Late fees add up fast. Send them the death certificate and ask to be confirmed as the "successor in interest." Until then, they may not share account details with you.

The right choice depends on the mortgage, the home’s value, your plans, and the other heirs involved.

If you inherited a home and want to understand what your financing options may look like, message me. We can go over the numbers and see what makes sense for your situation.
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS # 2355707
📱 716 275-8333
📧 [email protected]

09/17/2026

A lot of people miss out on great buyer programs because they assume "first-time" means you’ve never owned a home in your life. But most programs don't care about your whole life history. They only look at a specific window of time…

📌 The 3-Year Rule
For many first-time buyer programs, the basic question is: Have you had an ownership interest in a primary residence during the past 3 years?
→ If the answer is no, you likely count as a first-time buyer again - even if you owned a home ten years ago!
→ Your spouse may also need to meet the same requirement, depending on the program. For example, CalHFA looks at whether you owned and lived in your own home in the last 3 years, and whether you lived in a home your spouse owned during that time.

⚠️ A few important things to keep in mind:
→ First-time status isn't an automatic approval. You still need the right credit score, income, and debt ratio to qualify for the loan.
→ Down payment assistance isn't free money. Some programs provide assistance as a second loan that you may have to repay later. Income and home price limits can also apply.
→ Rental or inherited properties have different rules. How they count depends on the specific program, so always ask.

Have questions about qualifying? I can help you see which loan and assistance programs may fit.
Send me a message and let's look at your options!
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS #2355707

09/13/2026

If you're self-employed, you probably know the story: You made good money last year, but after business expenses and write-offs, your tax return shows only $40,000 of income.

That may be great for your taxes. But when you apply for a conventional mortgage, that lower income can make qualifying much harder.

This is where a bank statement loan may help…
Instead of requiring tax returns, lenders review 12 to 24 months of your business or personal bank statements to evaluate your qualifying income. Here is how the process works:
→ The lender adds up all your business deposits over that timeframe.
→ They subtract an estimated percentage for business expenses (often around 50%, though this varies by lender and program).
→ Whatever is left over becomes your qualifying monthly income.

The best part? Slow months get averaged in with stronger months, so one quiet stretch usually isn't a dealbreaker on its own.

⚠️ But it's not just about how much money you deposit. The lender will also look at things like:
→ Your monthly debts
→ Your down payment
→ Cash reserves after closing
→ Your business and self-employment history
→ Your overall credit and financial profile

And there's one more thing to know:
Bank statement loans are Non-QM loans, so the interest rate is usually higher than a conventional loan. The trade-off is that you may be able to qualify based on your actual cash flow instead of the lower income shown on your tax return. Some programs may also offer no monthly mortgage insurance.

Is this right for you?
✅ Great fit if: You own a business, take full advantage of tax write-offs, have steady bank deposits, and have savings set aside.
❌ Probably not a fit if: Most of your income is cash that you don't deposit into a bank account, you just started your business, or your tax returns already show enough income for a standard loan.

If you're self-employed and planning to buy a home, send me a message. I can take a look at your situation and help you understand which loan options may make sense before you start house hunting.
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS #2355707

Subject to credit approval and full underwriting. Rates and terms subject to change without notice.

09/09/2026

When you get quotes from two different lenders, one might offer a lower rate but hide it behind higher upfront fees. Another might charge almost zero fees, but give you a slightly higher rate.

That’s why the lowest interest rate isn't always the best deal…
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💸 Common upfront lender fees to watch out for:
- Origination fee
- Underwriting fee
- Processing fee
- Discount points

→ To find the actual cheaper option, you have to look at both the rate and the fees together.
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📊 Let’s look at a simple example
House: $520,000
Down payment: 20% ($104,000)
Loan amount: $416,000
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Offer A: 6.75% + $6,000 in lender fees
Payment (principal and interest): About $2,698
- - - - -
Offer B: 7.00% + $2,500 in lender fees
Payment: About $2,768
- - - - -
Offer A saves about $70 a month, but costs $3,500 more upfront.
$3,500 ÷ $70 = About 50 months. So Offer A only wins if you keep this loan more than 4 years.

*Example only. Your real rate, fees, and terms depend on your full profile and current market pricing.

Knowing this, the real question isn't, "Who has the lowest rate?"
It's: "How long do I plan to keep this loan?"
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🛡️ A quick note on your credit score
Many buyers hesitate to shop around because they worry it will hurt their credit. But here’s how it actually works:

Mortgage credit inquiries made while shopping for a home loan are generally treated as a single inquiry when they happen within a short shopping period (usually 14–45 days).

So feel free to shop around - comparing lenders is completely normal. What you should be more careful about during the loan process is opening new credit cards, financing a car, or taking on new debt.
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🤝 And you don't have to do all the comparison yourself!
You don't need to call 5 different lenders or fill out 5 separate applications.

My job is to shop multiple lenders for you, compare the total costs side by side, and help you choose the option that fits your financial goals.
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📩 Thinking about buying a home or refinancing?

Send me a direct message or comment "COMPARE" below. Let's look at the full picture together before you make a choice!
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS #2355707

09/06/2026

Cheers to everyone who works hard all year long. You’ve earned the long weekend!

Happy Labor Day! 🎉

09/02/2026

Most people think lenders look at how much debt you owe. They don't!

They look at what you pay every month. That one difference changes which debt you should pay off first, and most buyers guess wrong…
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📊 The math lenders actually run
Your debt-to-income ratio, or DTI, is simple:
DTI = your total monthly payments (including the new house payment) ÷ your gross monthly income

Gross means before taxes. And notice what is missing from that formula: Your balances.
→ A $40,000 balance and a $4,000 balance can count the exact same if the monthly payment is the same.

So the question is never "how much do I owe?" It's "what payment shows up on my credit report?"
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🏦 The three types of debt, and how each one counts
→ Credit cards. Only the minimum payment counts, not the balance. A $6,000 balance with a $120 minimum adds $120 to your DTI. One catch: If your report shows no minimum payment at all, automated underwriting can plug in a percentage of your balance instead, which is usually worse for you.

→ Car loans and personal loans. The full fixed payment counts, every month, until the loan is gone. There is one useful exception. If you have roughly 10 payments or fewer left, that debt can often be left out of your DTI. Not always, and a very large payment may still count, but it's worth checking before you pay anything off.

→ Student loans. If your report shows a real payment, that payment counts. If it shows $0 because you're deferred, in forbearance, or on an income-driven plan, different loan programs handle it very differently. Some can use a documented $0. Others plug in a percentage of your balance instead, which can add hundreds of dollars of "debt" you don't actually pay. Same borrower, same file, different answer depending on the program.
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💡 Example: Why the smaller loan wins
Example only. Numbers are rounded to keep the math clear.

Buyer earns $7,500/month gross. Target house payment is $3,000.

Current debts:
- Credit card: $6,000 balance → $120 minimum
- Car loan: $9,500 left → $520/month
- Student loan: $28,000 balance → $85/month reported

Monthly debt = $725
DTI = ($3,000 + $725) ÷ $7,500 = 49.7%

Now, two choices:
Pay off the credit card ($6,000)
→ New DTI: 48.1%
→ Moved the needle 1.6 points

Pay off the car ($9,500)
→ New DTI: 42.7%
→ Moved the needle 7 points

Same buyer. The car cost more to pay off, but it bought almost five times more approval room. Meanwhile the $28,000 student loan, the scariest looking number on the list, was barely a factor.
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⚠️ Before you go pay something off
🛑 Don't drain your down payment or reserves to kill a debt. Cash in the bank is part of your approval too. Sometimes a slightly higher DTI with healthy savings is the stronger file.

🛑 Don't open anything new. A car loan, a furniture plan, or a personal loan taken 30 days before closing can undo everything. Lenders re-check your credit before funding.

🛑 Paying a card to zero doesn't mean closing it. Closing an old card can shorten your credit history and drop your score.

🛑 Don't refinance federal student loans into a private loan just to shrink a payment for DTI. You give up federal protections permanently for a short-term qualifying gain.
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The balance is what stresses you out. The payment is what the lender counts. Fix the payment.

Not sure which one of your debts is doing the most damage? Drop a 🏠 in the comments and I'll DM you a quick way to check it yourself, or send me your numbers and I'll run them with you!
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS #2355707

*Subject to credit approval. Rates and terms subject to change without notice." or your firm's version.

08/30/2026

💸 Still paying PMI?
… let’s see if you can stop now 👇

You usually pay Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) when:
- You bought your home with less than 20% down
- Your loan > 80% of your home value
*This post is about Conventional loans. FHA is a different animal, more on that at the bottom.

BUT PMI IS NOT FOREVER!
There are 3 common ways for you to stop paying PMI…

1️⃣ Wait for it to drop off
When your balance hits 78% of your original purchase price, the law says your servicer must remove it automatically (if you're current on payments).

→ Usually 9 to 12 years in
→ At 80%, you can send a written request and get it off sooner. Conditions: No 30-day lates in the past 12 months, no 60-day lates in the past 24, and no second lien on the property (a HELOC counts)
*The automatic date is locked to your original schedule. Paying extra principal doesn't move it up.

2️⃣ Use your home's CURRENT value (no refinance needed)
If your home went up in value, Fannie and Freddie let you request PMI removal based on a new appraisal, not your purchase price. Same loan. Same rate. No closing costs.
→ Loan 2-5 years old: New LTV must be 75% or less
→ Loan 5+ years old: 80% or less
*Same payment history and second lien rules as above.

You pay for the appraisal, usually a few hundred dollars. Against $250/month forever, that math isn't close. Ask your servicer for "mortgage insurance termination based on current value."

3️⃣ Refinance out of it
Works when your rate today is the same or lower AND you have 20%+ equity.

🛑 A 0.25% rate drop on a $300K loan is about $45/month - that won't cover closing costs fast. It's the PMI disappearing that makes the breakeven work. Run those two numbers separately.
Skip this if your current rate is low, values in your area are flat, or you're already close to PMI falling off anyway.

⚠️ Two exceptions:
→ FHA loans charge MIP, not PMI. Closed after June 2013 with under 10% down? It stays for the life of the loan. Put 10%+ down? It drops off after 11 years.
→ Lender-paid PMI can't be cancelled at all. Refinance only.

📲 DM me today if you want to stop guessing and start planning your next smart move with your home!
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS #2355707

08/27/2026

One of you wants the smaller house now and a bigger one in a few years.
The other wants to buy once and be done.

→ Both of you are right. You're just measuring different costs.
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📊 Buy smaller now. You pay later, all at once.
Example only. Today the smaller home is $500,000. The bigger one you want is $650,000.
- Five years pass. If both go up at the same pace, the smaller one is worth about $608,000. The bigger one is about $791,000.
- Good news: You gained value. The catch: The two homes were $150,000 apart. Now they're about $182,000 apart. The house you want moved further away too.

Then you have to pay to move:
- Selling your home: About $36,000 to $61,000 (mostly agent commission, plus title and taxes)
- Buying the bigger one: About $16,000 to $40,000 (lender fees, appraisal, title, escrow)
→ That's roughly $52,000 to $100,000 just to change addresses.

📊 Buy bigger now. The cost shows up every month, for years.
Bigger loan, plus property tax and insurance that scale with the price. Plus higher utilities and maintenance, around 1% of the home's value per year. Plus less DTI room later if a car loan or medical bill shows up.
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💡 So don't argue about the house. Compare the two costs in the same unit.
1. Ask me for both full payments. Principal, interest, taxes, insurance, HOA. Not just the loan part. Subtract one from the other. That's what the bigger home costs you every month.

2. Take the moving cost above and divide it by how many years you'd stay in the smaller home. That's what buying twice costs you per year.

→ Now you can compare them fairly. Most of the time the smaller home needs about 5 to 7 years before your equity covers those moving costs.

⚠️ One rule that applies to both sides. After down payment and closing costs, money still has to be in the bank the next morning. If either option leaves you near zero, that option is out. Doesn't matter who won the argument.
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You can't win this argument without knowing your number first.

Message me before you start touring homes. We'll figure out what you qualify for, then you'll both know which option is real and which one isn't.
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS #2355707

*Subject to credit approval. Rates and terms subject to change without notice.

Entee Bui- Your mortgage point guard

09/25/2026

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