Entee Bui- Your mortgage point guard, 1619 E Monte Vista Road, Unit 5, Phoenix, AZ (2026)

09/02/2026

Most people think lenders look at how much debt you owe. They don't!

They look at what you pay every month. That one difference changes which debt you should pay off first, and most buyers guess wrong…
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📊 The math lenders actually run
Your debt-to-income ratio, or DTI, is simple:
DTI = your total monthly payments (including the new house payment) ÷ your gross monthly income

Gross means before taxes. And notice what is missing from that formula: Your balances.
→ A $40,000 balance and a $4,000 balance can count the exact same if the monthly payment is the same.

So the question is never "how much do I owe?" It's "what payment shows up on my credit report?"
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🏦 The three types of debt, and how each one counts
→ Credit cards. Only the minimum payment counts, not the balance. A $6,000 balance with a $120 minimum adds $120 to your DTI. One catch: If your report shows no minimum payment at all, automated underwriting can plug in a percentage of your balance instead, which is usually worse for you.

→ Car loans and personal loans. The full fixed payment counts, every month, until the loan is gone. There is one useful exception. If you have roughly 10 payments or fewer left, that debt can often be left out of your DTI. Not always, and a very large payment may still count, but it's worth checking before you pay anything off.

→ Student loans. If your report shows a real payment, that payment counts. If it shows $0 because you're deferred, in forbearance, or on an income-driven plan, different loan programs handle it very differently. Some can use a documented $0. Others plug in a percentage of your balance instead, which can add hundreds of dollars of "debt" you don't actually pay. Same borrower, same file, different answer depending on the program.
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💡 Example: Why the smaller loan wins
Example only. Numbers are rounded to keep the math clear.

Buyer earns $7,500/month gross. Target house payment is $3,000.

Current debts:
- Credit card: $6,000 balance → $120 minimum
- Car loan: $9,500 left → $520/month
- Student loan: $28,000 balance → $85/month reported

Monthly debt = $725
DTI = ($3,000 + $725) ÷ $7,500 = 49.7%

Now, two choices:
Pay off the credit card ($6,000)
→ New DTI: 48.1%
→ Moved the needle 1.6 points

Pay off the car ($9,500)
→ New DTI: 42.7%
→ Moved the needle 7 points

Same buyer. The car cost more to pay off, but it bought almost five times more approval room. Meanwhile the $28,000 student loan, the scariest looking number on the list, was barely a factor.
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⚠️ Before you go pay something off
🛑 Don't drain your down payment or reserves to kill a debt. Cash in the bank is part of your approval too. Sometimes a slightly higher DTI with healthy savings is the stronger file.

🛑 Don't open anything new. A car loan, a furniture plan, or a personal loan taken 30 days before closing can undo everything. Lenders re-check your credit before funding.

🛑 Paying a card to zero doesn't mean closing it. Closing an old card can shorten your credit history and drop your score.

🛑 Don't refinance federal student loans into a private loan just to shrink a payment for DTI. You give up federal protections permanently for a short-term qualifying gain.
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The balance is what stresses you out. The payment is what the lender counts. Fix the payment.

Not sure which one of your debts is doing the most damage? Drop a 🏠 in the comments and I'll DM you a quick way to check it yourself, or send me your numbers and I'll run them with you!
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS #2355707

*Subject to credit approval. Rates and terms subject to change without notice." or your firm's version.

08/30/2026

💸 Still paying PMI?
… let’s see if you can stop now 👇

You usually pay Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) when:
- You bought your home with less than 20% down
- Your loan > 80% of your home value
*This post is about Conventional loans. FHA is a different animal, more on that at the bottom.

BUT PMI IS NOT FOREVER!
There are 3 common ways for you to stop paying PMI…

1️⃣ Wait for it to drop off
When your balance hits 78% of your original purchase price, the law says your servicer must remove it automatically (if you're current on payments).

→ Usually 9 to 12 years in
→ At 80%, you can send a written request and get it off sooner. Conditions: No 30-day lates in the past 12 months, no 60-day lates in the past 24, and no second lien on the property (a HELOC counts)
*The automatic date is locked to your original schedule. Paying extra principal doesn't move it up.

2️⃣ Use your home's CURRENT value (no refinance needed)
If your home went up in value, Fannie and Freddie let you request PMI removal based on a new appraisal, not your purchase price. Same loan. Same rate. No closing costs.
→ Loan 2-5 years old: New LTV must be 75% or less
→ Loan 5+ years old: 80% or less
*Same payment history and second lien rules as above.

You pay for the appraisal, usually a few hundred dollars. Against $250/month forever, that math isn't close. Ask your servicer for "mortgage insurance termination based on current value."

3️⃣ Refinance out of it
Works when your rate today is the same or lower AND you have 20%+ equity.

🛑 A 0.25% rate drop on a $300K loan is about $45/month - that won't cover closing costs fast. It's the PMI disappearing that makes the breakeven work. Run those two numbers separately.
Skip this if your current rate is low, values in your area are flat, or you're already close to PMI falling off anyway.

⚠️ Two exceptions:
→ FHA loans charge MIP, not PMI. Closed after June 2013 with under 10% down? It stays for the life of the loan. Put 10%+ down? It drops off after 11 years.
→ Lender-paid PMI can't be cancelled at all. Refinance only.

📲 DM me today if you want to stop guessing and start planning your next smart move with your home!
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS #2355707

08/27/2026

One of you wants the smaller house now and a bigger one in a few years.
The other wants to buy once and be done.

→ Both of you are right. You're just measuring different costs.
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📊 Buy smaller now. You pay later, all at once.
Example only. Today the smaller home is $500,000. The bigger one you want is $650,000.
- Five years pass. If both go up at the same pace, the smaller one is worth about $608,000. The bigger one is about $791,000.
- Good news: You gained value. The catch: The two homes were $150,000 apart. Now they're about $182,000 apart. The house you want moved further away too.

Then you have to pay to move:
- Selling your home: About $36,000 to $61,000 (mostly agent commission, plus title and taxes)
- Buying the bigger one: About $16,000 to $40,000 (lender fees, appraisal, title, escrow)
→ That's roughly $52,000 to $100,000 just to change addresses.

📊 Buy bigger now. The cost shows up every month, for years.
Bigger loan, plus property tax and insurance that scale with the price. Plus higher utilities and maintenance, around 1% of the home's value per year. Plus less DTI room later if a car loan or medical bill shows up.
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💡 So don't argue about the house. Compare the two costs in the same unit.
1. Ask me for both full payments. Principal, interest, taxes, insurance, HOA. Not just the loan part. Subtract one from the other. That's what the bigger home costs you every month.

2. Take the moving cost above and divide it by how many years you'd stay in the smaller home. That's what buying twice costs you per year.

→ Now you can compare them fairly. Most of the time the smaller home needs about 5 to 7 years before your equity covers those moving costs.

⚠️ One rule that applies to both sides. After down payment and closing costs, money still has to be in the bank the next morning. If either option leaves you near zero, that option is out. Doesn't matter who won the argument.
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You can't win this argument without knowing your number first.

Message me before you start touring homes. We'll figure out what you qualify for, then you'll both know which option is real and which one isn't.
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS #2355707

*Subject to credit approval. Rates and terms subject to change without notice.

08/23/2026

💰 THE MONEY LENDERS WANT YOU TO KEEP

You saved the down payment. You saved the closing costs.
Then the lender asks what's left in your account after you buy.

That leftover money has a name: Reserves.
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🏠 What reserves actually are
Money you still have after the keys are in your hand.

You don't pay it to anyone. It stays in your account. It just proves you could keep making the house payment if work slows down or something unexpected hits.
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✨ Not everyone gets asked for it
There's no single rule. The lender looks at your whole picture at once.

Reserves are more likely to come up if you're:
→ Self-employed
→ Carrying a lot of monthly debt
→ Working with a lower credit score
→ Putting down less than 20%
→ Buying a rental, or using rent to help you qualify
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📊 How much you'd need
It's measured in months of your full house payment. Not just the loan part. Add the property taxes, insurance, and HOA dues too.

→ Buying a home to live in? Often none at all
→ Buying a rental? Usually around 6 months
→ Bigger or non-traditional loans? Often 6 to 12 months
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💎 It doesn't have to be cash in one account
These usually count:
✅ Checking and savings
✅ Stocks, bonds, mutual funds, CDs
✅ Vested money in a 401(k) or IRA (many lenders count only part of it, since taxes and penalties would take a cut)
✅ Cash value in a life insurance policy

The test is simple. Can you get to the money quickly if you need it?
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🛑 What doesn't count
❌ Money you'd have to borrow
❌ Retirement money you can't touch until you retire
❌ Equity in a home you already own, unless you've pulled it out and it's in your account
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🌟 Showing reserves isn’t just about meeting a lender’s checklist - it reflects financial readiness and helps you stand out as a strong borrower.

📲 DM me or comment “RESERVE” below - I’ll help you figure out exactly what you need and the smartest way to prepare without locking up your cash flow.

08/19/2026

Your rate is fixed for 30 years. Your monthly bill is not!

Same house. Same loan. Same interest rate.
Then one morning the statement shows a number that is hundreds of dollars higher than the one you signed for. Nothing broke. Nobody scammed you.

→ The number was there on your Closing Disclosure. What that page cannot tell you is what your bills will look like a year later…
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🏦 Your payment is really two buckets

Bucket 1: Principal and Interest. On a fixed rate loan, this never moves. This is the part your rate protects.

Bucket 2: Property Taxes and Homeowners Insurance. Your servicer collects a little each month, holds it in an escrow account, and pays those bills when they come due.

Here is what people miss:
→ Bucket 2 is an estimate, not a fixed cost
→ Once a year, your servicer compares that estimate to the real bills
→ If the estimate was too low, your monthly payment goes up
→ A fixed rate protects your loan. It does not protect your tax bill or your insurance premium.
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📊 Why the jump is bigger than people expect
When the escrow account runs short, you get hit twice in the same letter.

New escrow = (Next 12 months of taxes and insurance ÷ 12) + (The shortage ÷ 12)

One part is your new ongoing escrow amount. That is the higher bills.
One part is temporary. That is paying back what the account was short.

Most people see the new total and assume all of it is forever. Often a good chunk of it falls off after 12 months. That one detail changes how you plan your budget.
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🏠 An example
→ Purchase price: $900,000
→ In this example, escrow set up using the tax bill that existed at closing, which was still the seller's: $6,000 a year, or $500 a month
→ County reassesses the home at the new sale price. Taxes become roughly $10,800 a year, or $900 a month
→ Going forward: +$400 a month
→ Insurance renews higher, from $2,400 to $3,000 a year: +$50 a month
→ After the servicer's escrow analysis, the account is about $4,200 short, spread over 12 months: +$350 a month

⇒ Result: The payment goes up about $800, but roughly $350 of that is temporary and can fall off after the shortage is repaid.

*Example only. Your actual numbers depend on your county, your property, your insurance, and your servicer's escrow analysis.
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🚨 The California surprise: The supplemental tax bill
Under Prop 13, your home gets reassessed when it changes owners. The county then sends a separate, one time bill for the difference between the old value and your new value, prorated for the rest of the tax year.

Two things new buyers almost never hear:
→ It usually arrives 3 to 6 months after closing, sometimes later
→ It is mailed to you, and it is normally not paid out of your escrow account

If you close between January and May, you may get two of these bills instead of one. This can happen because the county may make separate tax adjustments for the current year and the following tax year.

Miss the due date and a 10% penalty gets added. Set money aside for it in year one and it is a non event.
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💡 What to do when the escrow letter shows up
→ Read the full escrow analysis statement, not just the new payment number.
→ Find the shortage line. Ask how much of the increase is catch up and how much is permanent.
→ Ask if you can pay the shortage in one lump sum instead. Same total money, lower monthly payment.
→ If the tax number looks wrong, check the assessed value with your county assessor.
→ Watch your mail. Letters about an "expiring home warranty" or offering a copy of your deed are advertising, not required notices. Real notices come from your servicer, your county, or your insurance carrier.
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Closing day is not the finish line. It is the first day of a 30 year relationship with a house that will keep sending you mail.

So, if buying a home is still just an idea, you’re saving, comparing numbers, or simply trying to figure out what you can comfortably afford - let’s talk!

My job isn’t just to get you a loan. It’s to help you understand the numbers before you make a decision, so there are fewer surprises after you get the keys.
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS #2355707

08/17/2026

Most first-time investors only look at one number: The basic mortgage payment. But when a lender opens your file, they look at the real costs of owning a property.

Here are the 3 main numbers that change everything - and how to spot them before you write an offer.

1️⃣ The "75% Rent Rule" (Why banks don't count all your rent)
When you apply for an investment property loan, banks only count 75% of the estimated rent to see if you qualify. If total rent is $2,600, the bank only counts $1,950.

Why? The bank holds back 25% to account for empty months (vacancy), maintenance, and management. If that $1,950 doesn't cover your monthly bill, the bank treats the leftover difference as personal debt you have to pay.

The lender isn't trying to make things hard. They are simply budgeting for the real costs that first-time buyers often forget.

2️⃣ Your "True Monthly Bill" (It's much more than the mortgage)
Here’s a simple example for a single-family home - with a $520,000 purchase price, 25% down ($130,000), a $390,000 loan, and an estimated 7.25% interest rate:
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Estimated monthly payment:
→ Principal & interest: ~$2,660
→ Property taxes: ~$500
→ Insurance: ~$180

👉 Total monthly cost (PITIA): ~$3,340
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Now compare that to rent:
→ Expected rent: $2,600

👉 Monthly shortfall: ~$740
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Now add the costs of owning:
→ Vacancy: ~$130
→ Maintenance: ~$250
→ Property management: ~$210

👉 Total monthly gap: ~$1,300
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That means you may need to cover about $1,300/month from your own pocket.

*Example only. Actual numbers will vary based on property, rates, and borrower profile.

3️⃣ The "Extra Cash Rule" (Money needed after closing)
Lenders usually require 6 months of total monthly payments sitting in your bank account after the deal closes. You cannot spend this money on the purchase - it must stay in reserve.

Using our example:
→ Required reserve: $3,340 × 6 months = ~$20,000

Total cash needed upfront:
→ Down payment (25%): $130,000 + Closing fees: ~$13,000 + Reserves: ~$20,000 = ~$163,000

🛑 So, Does This Mean You Shouldn't Buy a Rental?
Not at all! It just means you need a clear plan.

Successful investors usually pick one of these paths:
→ Put more cash down to reduce the monthly mortgage bill.
→ Look for a duplex or a home with an ADU so one property produces two rents.
→ Live in one unit of a 2–4 unit property first, use owner-occupied financing, and rent the entire property later.
→ Invest out of state in markets where rent prices are higher compared to home prices.
→ Accept a temporary monthly loss because your main goal is long-term property value growth (equity), not quick monthly income.

All 5 strategies work. The goal is to make sure you know what to expect before you sign the papers.

A good rental is not the one with the best photos or the highest rent estimate.
It is the one that still makes sense after you account for everything!

Ready to get pre-approved for your next rental loan?
Send me a message to review your numbers and structure the right loan for your strategy.

Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS #2355707

08/13/2026

Should you SELL YOUR HOUSE or RENT IT OUT instead 🏠❓
→ It depends. But there are some clear signs that can help you decide smarter (and avoid stress later)...

1/ First… start with the numbers - do it make sense? 📊

“Make sense” means:
Rent income – All expenses = Still positive ✔️

Expenses include:
- Mortgage (principal + interest + taxes + insurance)
- Repairs & maintenance
- Vacancy (some months may be empty)
- Property management (if you don’t want to self-manage)
If the numbers look tight or negative… it may not be the right time yet.

2/ Next… check your loan situation 🏦
- Does your current loan allow you to rent out the home?
- Have you lived there long enough (occupancy rule)?
- Do you have enough equity if you need to refinance?

Sometimes, to convert into a rental, you may need to:
👉 Refinance into an investment loan
👉 Show 20%+ equity
👉 Have cash reserves ready
*I can help you look at your current paperwork to see what’s allowed!

3/ Then… does your home fit the rental market? 📍
Not every home is a good rental.

Think about:
- Is your area popular for renters?
- What do renters in your area actually want?
- Does your home match that demand?

For example,
suburban homes often attract families who want space and a yard;
meanwhile, in the city, renters usually care more about location and convenience.

4/ Also… are you ready to be a landlord? 🔧
Rental income is great… but it’s not 100% passive.

You may deal with:
- Tenant messages (sometimes at night 😅)
- Repairs & small issues
- Finding and screening tenants
You can hire a property manager - but that’s extra cost.

5/ Finally… avoid common mistakes 🚫
Many first-time landlords lose money here:
- Using the wrong insurance (you need landlord insurance)
- Setting rent too high or too low
- Skipping tenant screening
- Underestimating repair costs

Not sure if your current mortgage allows you to rent it out?
Or curious about how much equity you have to start your next move?

📩 Message me - I’ll help you run the numbers and choose the best loan option for your situation.

08/09/2026

Buying a second home is a big financial move, so having the right plan really matters. But it’s not complicated - as long as you understand the “rules” from the beginning.

Here’s a simple way to look at it 👇

1. KNOW YOUR "WHY" 🎯
First, be clear about what this home is for.
- is it a vacation spot for your family?
- a place for your kids during college?
- or a long-term investment?

When you know your goal, it’s much easier to choose the right location and the right loan.

2. CHECK YOUR FINANCIAL “HEALTH” 💰
For a second home, lenders are stricter:
- higher down payment
- strong credit score
- DTI (debt vs income) needs to stay low
- you must afford both mortgages at the same time
- and don’t forget extra costs - tax, insurance, maintenance…

This step is all about knowing what you can comfortably afford, not just what you qualify for.

3. EXPLORE YOUR LOAN OPTIONS 🔑
For second homes, government-backed loans (like FHA) are not allowed.
So in most cases, buyers will use a conventional loan.

Besides that, if your first home has increased in value, you might also be able to use a HELOC or a Cash-Out Refinance. *In simple terms, you can use the equity from your first home to help support your second home purchase.

4. COMPARE YOUR OPTIONS 📊
Not all loans are the same. I’ll help you compare interest rates and fees so you get the best deal. My job is to run the math for you so you can focus on the fun part - shopping!

5. SHOP AND MAKE AN OFFER 🏡
Once we know your budget, you can start looking at properties that fit your goal. When you find “the one”, your agent will submit the offer, and I’ll help make sure your financing is ready to go.

6. CLOSE AND ENJOY! ✨
After the paperwork is done, the home is yours. Whether you’re setting up a vacation rental or moving your parents in, a well-managed second home is a beautiful asset for your family’s future.

💬 If you've been thinking about "leveling up" your life with a second home, let’s chat!
I’ll look at your numbers, listen to your goals, and find the best way to make it a reality.
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS # 2355707
📱 716 275-8333
📧 [email protected]

08/05/2026

I had a client called me on a Tuesday in April, only 8 days before two closings.
His house was already sold. His kids had picked their rooms in the new one. And he had just found out he could NOT buy it.

The number that killed the deal had been sitting on the listing the whole time.
Here is how he got there.

I want to say this part first: He did everything the way normal people do it.

He got promoted in the spring. Two incomes, decent savings, a house they bought in 2016 that had gone up a lot. They wanted more room and a better school district.

So they called an agent. Listed. Took an offer. Opened a 30 day escrow.
Then they went shopping and found it. Four bedrooms, right district, $1,250,000. He had a pre-approval. He wrote the offer. It got accepted.

The pre-approval was real. It just was not for that house.
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🏠 WHY THE NUMBER CHANGED
When you get pre-approved early, there is no house yet. So taxes, insurance and HOA go in as guesses.

Once there is a real address, the guesses get replaced.

The listing said property taxes were about $500 a month. That was true. For the seller. They bought in 1998, and Prop 13 has kept their assessed value crawling up 2% a year ever since.

The day escrow closes, the county reassesses the house at what you paid for it. His tax line went to about $1,250 a month.

The HOA was $310. He knew that one. What he did not know is that the lender counts it as part of his housing payment, right next to principal and interest.

Then the insurance quote came back at $240 instead of the $110 the early estimate used. Nobody who has shopped for a California policy lately is shocked by that.

None of it is a hidden fee. It is just the difference between a guess and an address.
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📊 WHAT IT DID TO HIS FILE
- Payment he planned for: about $6,900 a month
- Payment the lender had to use: about $8,100 a month
- Income before taxes: $18,000 a month
- Car and student loans: about $1,150 a month

At $6,900, his debt to income was about 45%. Comfortable.

At $8,100, it was about 51%. Conventional loans generally stop at 50%.

He missed by one point. On a number he never knew he was supposed to check.

Same guy, same income, same house. The only thing that changed was who did the estimating.

Example numbers only. Your taxes, HOA, insurance and payment depend on your property and your own file.
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🛑 WHAT HE COULD DO AT THAT POINT
Not so much, and that is the hard part.

More money for down payment would have fixed it. His money was already all in there.

Backing out of his own sale meant breaking a contract with a family who had a moving truck booked.

And he was past his contingency removal date on the purchase, so his deposit was sitting out there too ☹️

The seller agreed to let him out. That was luck!

They closed on their sale, moved into a rental for the summer, and bought again a few months later at a price that actually worked. Two moves, a storage unit, and one very long summer.
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✅ THE ORDER THAT WOULD HAVE SAVED HIM
He was not bad with money. He was good with money. He just did the steps in the order that feels natural.

1. Call a loan officer first, before the agent. Not for a letter. For a real maximum price, with real taxes for the neighborhoods you are actually shopping.
2. Then list your house.
3. Then go look, with a number you can trust.

One California rule worth writing down. The tax number on the listing belongs to the seller. It is never yours.

Ask what the payment looks like at your purchase price before you let your kids pick a room.

Fifteen minutes on the phone can save you a summer. Send me a message and we will run your real numbers.

Share this with someone who is selling and buying at the same time this year.
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS #2355707

08/02/2026

Rates might come down. They might not. Nobody can tell you when, and anyone who says they can is guessing.

But here's what nobody tells you: Waiting usually pays you less than fixing your own file.

Let me show you...
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💡 SAME LOAN, TWO PATHS
Example only. Your actual rate and terms depend on your full financial profile.

You're quoted 6.9% on a $500,000 loan. That's about $3,293 a month (principal and interest).

Path A: You wait, and rates drop 0.25%
→ 6.65% = About $3,210 a month
→ You save about $83 a month
→ And you have no idea when. Could be next year. Could be never.
- - - - - - - - -
Path B: You clean up your file and shop 3 lenders, and land 6.5%
→ 6.5% = About $3,160 a month
→ You save about $133 a month
→ Starting at your closing

Same house. Same loan. The path you control pays more, and it pays sooner.
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🎯 HOW YOU GET PATH B

→ Your credit profile. Paying down credit card balances before your statement closes lowers your utilization, and that can move your score inside one billing cycle. Conventional loan pricing steps up in 20-point score bands, so a small move can land you in a better bucket.

→ Your debt load. Paying off a car loan or a small installment loan lowers your DTI. That changes what you qualify for, and sometimes how you're priced.

→ Your quotes. Freddie Mac's own research found borrowers who got two quotes cut their rate by about 0.1 to 0.2 of a point on average. In high-rate periods, four or more quotes was worth over $1,200 a year. *Most people apply with one lender and take whatever comes back. That's the most expensive habit in this whole process.
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🛑 TWO THINGS TO BE HONEST ABOUT

→ A better rate doesn't fix a payment you can't afford. Taxes and insurance are the quiet budget killers. So run the full payment, not just principal and interest.

→ Don't stretch above your pre-approval because you'll "figure it out later." House-poor is real, and there's no easy exit.

❌ This isn't the right move for you if: Your income just changed, you have no cash cushion beyond the down payment, or you've never seen a real pre-approval. Fix that part first.
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You can't negotiate with the Fed. You can absolutely negotiate with your own file!

Message me. Ten minutes and you'll know your real number instead of a guess.

Share this with someone who's been "waiting for rates to drop" since last year!
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Entee Bui | NMLS #2079117 | Branch NMLS #2355707

*Subject to credit approval. Rates and terms subject to change without notice."

Entee Bui- Your mortgage point guard

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