09/10/2022
The recent passing away of Deepak Nirula at the age of 70 – has sparked conversations and memories of the iconic, eponymous brand that he and his sibling Lalit set up in the years 1977 at L Block in Connaught Circus in New Delhi.
I seem to remember that our “eating out” experiences for those of us who lived in “saddi dilli” were a mix of the local mithai shop that would also serve dosa, chaat, channa bhatura, local dhabas such as Kake da Hotel, icons like Gaylord’s or Kwality’s or the 5 star restaurants that were beyond one’s budget even on a special occasion. Later on Machan at the Taj Mansingh would become the exception.
Which is why the Nirula’s offering – which was a judicious mix of their version of “fast-food” in the form of ( I think ) The Snack Bar which served desi faves on standing room only tables, The Hot Shoppe next door with their iconic burgers and pizzas; a quick service restaurant upstairs called Pot-Pourri with their iconic Salad Bar, the Pastry Shop tucked away in a corner on the ground floor and last but not the least – the amazing Nirula’s 21 Ice Creams Parlour – located on the other side of their space and facing an arterial road that links Inner Circle with the Outer Circle of Connaught Place – enabling higher and easier footfalls and visibility – was foodie heaven for all of us.
Nirula’s ticked off all the boxes – the food was what we desperately aspired to and wanted, of excellent and consistent quality, located in a popular hub of the heart of Delhi, the pricing was pocket friendly and because it was so popular – it became THE place to see & be seen at.
Cult favourites included the Big Boy Burger, the Mutton Chop, the Hot Shoppe Special Pizza, Footlongs, the Hot Chocolate Fudge Sundae and Lime Ice Soda, Nutty Buddy, Rum Raisin & 21 Love Ice Cream flavours. Obviously the two siblings – Lalit and Deepak were using their learnings from Cornell and doing their alma mater proud.
Before we knew it – the brand grew and outlets came up in other locations – the two most popular ones being at Chanakya Cinema and Defence Colony. You could go to any Nirula’s outlet and be sure of getting the same consistent quality of great food and service.
And then suddenly the outlets closed down. The one close to me in East of Kailash lasted the longest but also finally closed down to be replaced by another brand. The odd ice-cream parlour franchise would keep popping up at a few locations. We heard that the brothers had sold the brand to investment bankers. All of us who grew up with the brand – quietly mourned its passing and moved on with our lives. And got busy with the likes of Domino’s, Pizza Hut, McDonald’s and more.
Then one fine day – when social media had evolved to include communities of “passionate foodies” – a chirpy post popped up saying that Nirula’s was still around and exhorted us to order our favourites online and bring back the good old days. Which I did – and my world came crashing down around me. My favourite pizza with mushrooms was leathery and flavourless. My chocolate milkshake was watery and most un-chocolatey. My unhappy feedback was completely ignored. Then the food quality was justified under the guise of being modified to be “ suitable for delivery. “ Which of course – I did not buy into. After all – with apologies to the master David Ogilvy – “ The customer is not a moron. She is your Facebook friend.”
A lot of other folks on the community seemed to echo my sentiments. However – for us it was less about the food. And more as if we had lost a part of our Wonder Years. Since we had grown up with Nirula’s at time when nothing else existed – a host of precious memories were associated with it. First dates, break-ups, free HCF if you scored 90% plus and showed your report card… heck just the space and the food itself was enough to have made a place in our hearts. When we tried to recreate the experience some thirty odd years later – the whole thing was a sad mess – no where close to what we held so dear.
That’s my little piece of history associated with the Nirula’s brand. Today as my tribute to Deepak Nirula – here are my learnings from his ( possible ) playbook which may have enabled him and his sibling to create a brand that we still hold so dear and wistfully yearn for.
1
Be in the right place and at the right time
One can say they got lucky. But you can create the right place and the right time for yourself with offering a better or clearly differentiated product. Today we see Burmese cuisine, sourdough subscriptions, DIY food kits, ready to cook sauces – all finding their own niche of happy consumers.
2
Stay consistent with quality & experience
A Big Chill is packed to the gills because you will get the same desserts or salads no matter which location you may be at. Wenger’s does it even today with their cult chocolate fudge and chicken and mushroom patties that we still lust after – and which I see folks carrying on flights out of Delhi.
3
Sweet spot pricing
The founders may have been tempted to jack up prices – but they were consistently affordable for a regular family. As students with limited pocket money – taking a DTC bus to CP where three of us would split a Hot Shoppe pizza and be perfectly satiated after it.
4
Be innovative, Be playful
The brothers were possibly inspired by the fast food cafés and quick service restaurants back in the US of A. So while that may have been their starting point – they did go about creating innovations in their menu – which quickly became our favourites
5
Create a brand and non-tangible ( emotional ) associations with it for your consumers
A product is made up of features and tangibles. A brand takes them to the next level of intangibles and emotions that can only be experienced. It’s the memory of a first date at Chanakya Nirula’s with its bay windows and cane chairs and greenery - or my personal favourite – of a create-your-own-sundae using Nirula’s Jamoca Almond Fudge ice-cream as a base with nuts and the Nirula’s chocolate fudge syrup which remains one of my fondest memories.
Thank you for the joy Deepak Nirula. You live on in our memories. Om Shanti. Om Sadgati.
